The Finger Strength Equation: Hangboard Training Gear for Projecting Climbers
For the sport or trad climber who's accepted that crimps on hard routes require dedicated finger training
Metolius Rock Rings 3D Portable Hangboard
Rock Rings are the portable hangboard solution — suspended from a pull-up bar or beam on separate loops, they create the slight pendulum instability that engages shoulder and core stabilizers in addition to finger tendons. The 3D surface geometry provides edge depths from 20mm down to 10mm, covering the training spectrum from jug-hauling warmup to limit crimping.
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Black Diamond Momentum Harness with Chalk Bag and Belt
A high-end chalk bag designed for training intensity — wide mouth opening for fast chalking between sets, brushable fleece liner that releases chalk evenly without over-dusting, and a belt stiff enough to hold position on the back while moving through training sequences. The fleece material holds chalk humidity better than standard cotton bags.
Metolius Simulator 3D Portable Hangboard Training Board
A fixed hangboard with simulated rock holds rather than machined wooden edges — the variety of pocket depths, pinch rails, and sloper angles allows training specificity for different climbing styles. Metolius's textured finish prevents over-chalking and gives better tactile feedback on edge quality than smooth wood boards.
Lattice Training Pulley System for Finger Rehab and Training
A rubber band and pulley system that applies sub-bodyweight loads to the hanging position — essential for A2 pulley rehab protocols and for introducing hangboard training to beginners who can't yet sustain bodyweight dead-hangs without injury. Lattice Training's pulley system is the equipment their coaching protocol is built around.
The Climbing Bible: Practical Exercises and Training for Climbing by Martin Mobråten
Mobråten's training manual covers periodization for climbing performance with hangboard protocols, campus board progressions, and antagonist training — the full picture that prevents the finger-only training that leads to shoulder and elbow problems. The section on injury prevention and return-to-training protocols is more complete than any other widely available text.
Friction Labs Unicorn Dust Loose Chalk 10 oz
Friction Labs processes their chalk at higher purity than standard climbing chalk, removing the magnesium oxide impurities that reduce friction in humid conditions. The difference is noticeable on crimps and slopers where chalk application is a last layer of friction management rather than just drying agent — which is exactly where hangboard training happens.
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